Day 48 and 49

 Karijini to Exmouth (with a stop at Nanaturra Roadhouse (680km)

Total Km 8921

Photos Taken: 4203!!! thank God for Digital SLRs!!!!! (and Mum for the bigger memory card for my B'day!!!)

 

So, sadly we have to leave Karijini NP, and after the kids collected their “Karijini NP Junior Ranger” badges, we headed off again, West now towards Exmouth, which is our Gateway to the Ningaloo Reef. We are booked into the Big 4 in Exmouth and as such are going to “ drive until it hurts” today, and find a suitable rest area to stay in along the way. We stop in at Tom Price for a few groceries as we have been told the Exmouth IGA is very pricey!

 

With the Grey Nomads stopping for lunch and then forgetting to drive again after lunch, the Free Roadside camps fill up soon after lunch with 60 foot Caravans driven by people who scare the daylights out of me just being allowed to drive a car! None the less we head west, and opt to stay at the Nanuturra Roadhouse, about 230km short of Exmouth. Not bad: $30 per night, hot showers, power and clean amenities. Just a shame that you can’t hammer a tent peg into the ground L !!!!! Our “neighbour”, who is staying for a few weeks offers to park his ute in such a way we can tie some guys to it! Nice!!!!

 

Showered and rested we drive on to Exmouth. We opt to go and grab some things for lunch. On the way out of the park we spot another Tambo Omeo Camper Trailer. There are perhaps only 20-30 made so it’s a bit of a treat. We point and gawk, they look at us strange, as we have dumped the trailer in our spot having already checked in. We wind windows down and say “we have an Omeo too!!” and discover we are also both on MySwag, and in fact had exchanged messages about some things!! Small world. We agree to catch up later, turns out we can see each others sites! Weird!! Simon and Kylie and family, it turns out, have just stayed in the same campground, Kurrajong in Cape Range NP, that we are heading to tomorrow. They are also leaving tomorrow for Ningaloo Station (very envious!!!!!) and are going to try and come back to Kurrajong!! Wow, seems we picked the right place!!!  

 

Spend the arvo, lazing (for a change, there are no little jobs to be done!!!) and chatting for a bit with Simon and Kylie about their set up, the way they pack and manage things. We compare electrical set ups and storage ideas. We also got the inside running on a few things to do and see up there. Brilliant!!!!!

 

 

Day 46 and 47 – Tom Price to Karijini NP

Catching some Rays: Solar works great up here!!!!

About 70km from tom Price is the Karijini NP. This National Park, the Largest in WA, encompass’

some of the most magnificent gorges and scenery. Unlike Windjana Gorge, which is raised above the land and gorges carved out of the Mountains, Karijini, is flat with the gorges deep, deep into the ground!

 

Karijini NP also includes Yampire Gorge, the place Lang Hancock first discovered and mined crocadilite (Blue asbestos) but then shut that down when the larger deposit was discovered at Wittenoom gorge. Wittenoom Gorge is only 10km from the savannah Camp ground, admittedly, over a mountain range! Still, so close to such infamy is some of the most amazing scenery this land has to offer!

 

Drop by the Camp Hosts to get our sire allocation. Camp hosts are people who volunteer to assist DEC rangers with camper issues. Here there are 2 couples, “working” a 2 on/2 off roster. In return they get, free camping, power and water (the rest of the NP has no power or even bore water!!) Seems they are looking for a couple to do this for 4 weeks, starting next week! I offer, but an quickly shot down, being told they are looking for COUPLES, not FAMILIES. D’oh!

 

We head to look at Circular Pool Lookout. Amazing. One thing that need to be said. Everything here sits on a bed of iron ore. This whole national Park is RED, with Red and black tonings. The Visitor Centre is made of untreated steel, allowed to gather surface rust, and it just blends in to the surroundings. The Red in the photos still doesn’t quite do it justice!

 

In Memorium

Day 2 here and we head into the car and head to Oxer Lookout and Junction Pool. WOW. 4 gorges all coming together, makes for a spectacular sight and again the colors are amazing. At Oxer lookout as Regan’s Pool. Regan’s Pool, was renamed in 2004 after the death of a Newman SES volunteer who was killed when a flash flood struck during a rescue operation of a tourist who had injured themselves on the walk in the gorge below. Several members of the rescue party were injured, and Jim Regan was killed. The tourist suffered no further injury. A Celtic cross adorns the site., Also bearing testament to the number of cliff rescues is the permanent tie off fixtures present for High Angle Rescue gear.

Stoopid People

 

 

 

Fern Pool! Awesome

Max having his toes nibbled by fish!!!

 

 

We head back for lunch after dropping by the visitor centre. Again, brilliant, we done DEC!!! Blending local indigenous heritage with the more modern “European” history of the area.

 

Afterward we head to Fern Pool. As this is a class 4 walk (1 being wheelchair accessible, 5 requiring “experienced hikers”) Mandy  opted not to do it, after I’d recced it the day before

 

Day 45 - Tom Price Still

This is a SMALL Dump Truck - since replaced with even BIGGER ones!!!!

MINE TOUR!!!!! We stump up $90 hard earned into Gina Reinhart’s pocket (like she needs it!!!!) and board “Crunchie” the bus for a tour of the Tom Price mine. Baz, the bus driver, who was called in at the last minute from his RDO because the other bloke called in sick, was in fine form on the commentary, having missed his true calling as a comedian!

 

This machine used to take 700 Litres of hydraulic oil!!!!

Everything is massive, from the trucks to the holes in the ground! The kids are amazed at the size of everything, and are now already hatching a plan to build a Lego City including a mine and railway…..

At the Look Out, where you can actually get off the bus and wander around (within boundaries) Baz points out that where we are standing is 100m BELOW where the Peak of Mt Tom Price USED to be, and in front of us is a hole almost a deep again, where Iron Ore is still extracted from!!!!!

 

Tom Price is also home to WA SES’ busiest unit, doing 40-50 Rescues from Karijini National Park a year. Most of these are high angle Cliff Rescues. Seems many tourists, foreign and local, see the need to not heed the ample and abundant warning signs re falls and cliff risks.

 

Afternoon, drive to top of Mt Nameless. Pretty amazing view of Tom Price township and the mine site.

 

Day 45, Wednesday 24/7/2013 MCNP to Tom Price

We stop in at Deep Reach Pool. Again Magnificent. Memo Parks Victoria: Send some people on a “fact finding “ mission to WA DEC and copy everything they do!!!! Brilliant facilities, well maintained and just awesome. Clean toilets and basically no smell from Long Drop dunnies!!!! Get on board Parks Vic!

 

These 220,000 tonne trains are set to be "driverless" by 2015, instead being driven by a 14 year old on an X-Box from Perth!

After resitting the Rio Tinto rail access road “test” in Port Hedland Library, we are ready to head off and see some more mine Trains as the kids have taken to calling them. With Rio Tinto running only 3 Locos and 150 odd cars they are smaller than the BHP ones, but run 30 trains a day to port rather than only 12. Chances on seeing one drastically improves!!

 

We are not disappointed

Day 44 – Port Hedland to Millstream-Chichester NP

Leaving Port Hedland for the NP again, and an uneventful drive out. Weather is becoming overcast and cooling down some.

The name "Wittenoom" was supposed to have been removed from all Road
signs, to "discourage" people to stop there

We finally reach the turnoff to Millstream Chichester NP, on the Roebourne-Wittenoom rd, except its not called that anymore. Wittenoom was “degazzetted” as a town by the WA government in 2006, and all signage and references on official government maps was removed (apparently). You may ask why? Wittenoom was “created” in 1947 as a company town for CSR’s ABA or Australian Blue Asbestos, after Lang Hancock sold his fledgling crocodilite (or Blue Asbestos) mine that he had been privately running from is pastoral lease, to CSR.  He found blue asbestos in Yampire gorge and Wittenoom Gorge, and in the 1930’s and 40’s “environmental impact” was a term still 50 years in the making

 

The mine was shut down in 1966, not due to health reasons for its workers and their families, but non-profitability!!! The town of Wittenoom, immortalised by the Midnight Oil song “Blue Sky Mine”, is now not officially a town, and in 2003 was disconnected from the P:ower Grid, and has no official services or support. In spite of all this, 8 people still live there. The ground is said to be covered in Asbestos Tailings (the residue from mining) and signs warn people (closer to the “site”) that “this area contains asbestos fibres, and poses a health risk to humans, and may cause cancer” Not very subtle!!!!

 

Around lunch, after driving on some superbly maintained dirt roads, we arrive at Python Pool for a bite to eat. Magnificent!!!! The pictures we take do it no justice at all. The light is flat as its overcast, but the pool is amazing, and only 100m from the carpark, and 200m from the road. What a sight it would be after some rain!!

 

Back in the car and we head for Millstream (hereafter called MCNP). The arrive at the homestead about 3:00pm and manage to shoehorn the Tambo into a site. The ground is rusty red and proved the better of several of our tent pegs L Actually had a slight sprinkle of rain, well, drizzle, and it lasted 30 seconds, and didn’t come back!!!

 

Called in to VKS737 again, and in doing so worked out what the strange interference on the HF was. It’s the Waeco fridge. When it is operating, it makes a nasty interference on the radio and you can’t hear anything except this warbling sound. I now know to disconnect the fridge while I’m on the radio. Which is better than having to get he Autotune antenna fixed when we get back (even thought I brought a spare “tapped whip”…..just in case)

Day 43-44 80 mile beach and Port Hedland

Day 43 80 Mile to Port Hedland

 

Get out of 80 mile and head south for Port Hedland. Port Hedland is essentially a town living on the mining boom. BHP Billiton IS Port Hedland, and without BHP since the 60’s, this place would be a fishing port with a few boats and be best known for being wiped out by a cyclone every 20-30 years!

 

On the way in, see a “mine train”. Picture this: A Train, with 6 Locomotives (3 engines at the front and 3 at the back) 336 Ore cars, measuring over 3.5km LONG. For the LWPS audience, that's the same as going from the front gate of the school, to Melba Park, where the museum is, AND BACK AGAIN to school!

Pinched this pic from BHP Billiton website........I didn't have a spare helicopter to take one myself!

 

Everything in a rusty color because of the Iron ore dust, and everything is BIG

 

Except the camp site at the Caravan park which is tiny and barely fits out camper trailer and Car!!!! Very annoying!!

 

 

In Port Hedland all day. The Car serviced by Pilbara Toyota. Sunil says, when we drop the car off, he’ll try and have it back to us around lunch, after a minor service and inspection. He is aware Mandy is pregnant and doesn’t want us to not have a car for too long. Nice

 

We’ve only been gone about 20 minutes, and we get a call. This isn’t going to be good….. The water pump shaft seal is leaking. Damn……better replace it….. How much? $850!!!!! Most of it is labour, as the radiator has to come out.  We’ll do our best, but it may not be ready until late this afternoon. Hmmmmm What to do in Port Hedland. We have breaky at the Silver Star café, which is in an old Railway carriage. Quaint. Nice food. Pleasant pricing., Same as Melbourne, except the latte was $4.50, but was is a big glass, and was actually quite nice. Almost Yarra standard!!

 

We wander around, go to  a camping store, see the main sights, and consider getting haircuts, except the girl, who has no one in the shop is “ fully booked out until next week”. Whatever…….

 

We heads for the visit centre and bask in their air con and comfy couches. 1230 and we decide we better eat, and head to a Café on the main street. Plenty of “locals” (ie wearing fluro BHP Billiton gear” so figure must be ok. Food not back, pricey, and was even more money we hadn’t counted on spending……on top of the $850 water pump!!!!

 

Sitting there about 1300 and the phone rings…… It’s Toyota. The car is ready! What??!! Brilliant. They pushed it through as they knew we were without a car. Nearly every other car in the workshop had fluro stripping down the side……Maybe they made them wait?? Anyway, Thanks Pilbara Toyota! While we were waiting, and pondering the new $850 leaving out pockets…… I figured it could have been worse. The pump seal could have gone on the Tanami or the Nullabour, MILES from anywhere, and dropped all the coolant, AND cooked the engine…… and cost THOUSANDS and days and days. SO really,….. it could have been a whole lot worse!!!!

DAY 40 Middle Lagoon to Port Smith (YAWN) then 80 mile beach Day 41-42

DAY 40 Middle Lagoon to Port Smith 255km+80km to Port Smith

 

We get out of Middle Lagoon by 0800 and reach our initial intended destination of Roebuck Plains Roadhouse by 1130. Get some food and decide to keep driving.



"Made to prevent sore throats"..... I suppose they didn't consider
 getting  Throat Cancer as a "sore Throat"

Roadhouse has a sit down “restaurant” which has a great collection of vintage signs, both fuel and tobacco company ones and some of the slogans for the tobacco are just plain hilarious in hindsight. Even has poor Grammar.....

 

Port Smith is a fishing “town” which has a caravan park and… no, that’s it.

Had still not discovered the cause of the Hot Wheel Hub in Broome. Both hubs about the same temp now. Then: a brain wave. When I checked them in Broome, we'd been driving through town, and I'd also noted on the way out of Broome that the Trailer Brakes didn't appear to be as "strong" as they were earlier. I wondered if they needed adjustment. Then thought " perhaps only one side is working, and the heat was from all the braking effort, and only on one side" Graba  Tarp and crawl under the trailer. Sure enough, hanging there, is the cable to the electric brake on the "cold side", clearly broken and hanging down. I climb out get soldering iron, tape and a few bits and pieces. 20 mins later: Fixed. I just hope this is the problem!

 

We happen to arrive on Thursday which is Fish and Chip night. $5 per head. You get a piece of fish caught that day and donated to the cause by people from the park, and chips. Proceeds to the RFDS, and for a gold coin donation, you can have seconds, or thirds! Bargain! The Sausages stay in the fridge another night!! Easily 200 people there.

 

A singer, Fiona, from Broome is along to entertain. Normally, she’s there with her family to perform, but then rest are in Perth for NAIDOC week. She’s quite good

 

Day 41 Port Smith to 80 Mile beach 180km

Fuel : Sandfire Roadhouse $1.96 - OUCH

 

Depart Port Smith and head south to 80 Mile beach. On the way, book the car into Pilbara Toyota  for the service Broome Toyota couldn’t fit us in for.

Both Wheel hubs on the Trailer seem to be the same temp now and the brakes are working much better. hopefully that's Problem: Solved!!!!

 

Ring 80 Mile beach Caravan park and they don’t have any powered sites available, but no big dealt. Batteries are topped up anyway. We stop at the Sandfire Roadhouse. I was hoping not to have to stop here for fuel, and get into Port Hedland on the fill in Broome and the remaining Jerry can, but alas, still 230km from Port Hedland, the fuel light comes on, and with only 120-130km from a Jerry can of fuel we are forced to fuel up…. For $1.96 , or $229 worth of diesel!!!!

 

We feel decidedly out of place as it seems EVERY other towable accommodation (that’s caravan and camper trailer) is a Jayco!!!!! We also note that 80 Mile doesn’t take bookings and so we scamper, beating the Greyus Nomadicus who stop there for lunch. Afterall, it is only 1130!!!

 

Get into 80 Mile Beach CP and grtab an unpowered site, with no one around us. Sites are reasonably sized, but we have to disconnect the car to fit in. No biggy as we are here for 2 nights.

 

 

Its cooled down somewhat and getting windy. We head down to the beach, which is pretty spectacular. A lot og people with Quad bikes here too. Seems there is no patrolling of the beach for driving issues as people mostly seem to drive to the beach on their Quaddies, Beer in one hand, kids sitting on the back, like there is some sort of normality to it! Anyway, each to their own.

 

80 mile beach is not a “swimming” beach  per se, but a place people come to fish. I feel quite out of place as I don’t fish, but again, each to their own. We have the Snags in bread we were going to have last night before we discovered the $5 Fish and chips!!

 

Day 42 80 Mile Beach …… still

 

Been blowing a gale all night. Didn’t lose any pole or guys overnight but the wind is actually picking up. Call into VKS Derby and operator says sometimes they call it 80 Mile Per hour Beach as that is what the wind can seem like. Not comforting!!!!

 

We install 3 extra guys top stop the movement, and the kids are in for some homework today as we have broken out the jumpers!!!

 

I saw lots of people watching TV last night and decided to put a plan into action. I use 2 spare tent pole we have and make a Mast for the Rabbit ear TV aerial to go onto to improve reception. Woo Hoo. Success. We have 12 channels and we can catch up on what’s been happening in the world. Apparently, KRudd kicked Julia Gillard out as PM a Few weeks back……. And no one bothered to send us a message by radio!!!!! ;)

 



Max, paying his respects to our country's
 service personnel

The wind starts to ease about lunch, and the sun comes out. We decide to head to the beach to look around. On the way to the beach yesterday we noticed a "War Memorial". The memorial was built by the 80 Mile Beach Vietnam Veterans Association, and commemorates the service and sacrifice of all service men and women, but in particular, those of this district.

 

Note: This photo was not posed. I stopped to take a photo of the memorial, and while looking at the composition, I looked up to see Max, standing at the base of the memorial; standing at attention, head bowed. Made me very proud, and maybe brought a little tear to my eye.

 

Max asked is it was a Grave or just a "remembering place, you know, like The Shrine in the city". I told him it was a memorial to the soldiers, sailors and airmen from this area who had served in the various wars. He said it was a "beautiful place to remember people". I just hugged him again. Wiped away a little tear.

 

 

 

 

 

Kids played Bocce, we did some Baseball and played on the beach. The beach is covered in shells. Some parts don’t seem to have sand, but tiny pieces of broken shells.

 

Must check calendar. I’ve forgotten what day of the week it is!!!

Middle Lagoon - Dampier Peninsula

Day 37

Broome to Middle Lagoon 173km

 



Sunset at Middle Lagoon - not half bad

Well, Middle Lagoon is meant to be one of the most beautiful places on the Dampier peninsula. It is amazing. What is NOT is the road in. The Cape Leveque Rd, we were told was pretty bad. It wasn’t that bad. It had 80km of dirt that was mostly smooth sandy base, some corrugations. The Middle lagoon rd was 33km of BIG corrugations, single lane mostly and deep sand.

 

 

 

Take the kids to the beach late in the arvo. Did I mention is about 38 degrees!!!!!

 

Group of 50 somethings next to us crack out a guitar and start singing after dinner. Not amazing, but not bad. Anyway, some fun Nazi come over at 750pm and suggests its “a bit late for that don’t you think?” at 1950 aty night??!! Talk about being the “fun Police”.  disappointed

 

Day 38 Still Middle lagoon. Not leaving so soon after such an awful  road.

 

Shells were in abundance at Middle Lagoon



Ready to try Snorkelling
 

2 trips to the beach today. Both in the car. Promise to crack out the snorkelling gear after lunch.

 

Snorkelling proves MASSIVE hit. Kids see fish they call “pencil fish” because they look like they have pencils on their noses, and some big ones. Max was “surrounded” but fish!!! Both kids loved it!

All this swimming is making me tired...........



 

Kids catch up with friends from Ellenbrae, Manning Gorge and Broome

 

Join in the singalong after an invite. No Fun Police tonight and  good time had by all.

Fitzroy Crossing to Broome (and all that Broome has to offer)

Day 31 – Fitzroy Crossing to Broome

Driving today 396km to Broome

 

 

Off early to get the 396km of bitumen road behind us!! Hanging out for a swim! Whilst in FC, we made contact with a member from a camper trailer forum, MySwag,org we are on. A member, Steve, who lives in Broome had offered to help us find any parts we needed after the trailer hitch went for a hike. Gave Steve a call and he has been running around checking to see if anyone has the parts we need. Anyway, we had a few availability issues, but we have a week to get something sorted.  Also noticed that one wheel hub on the trailer was running a lot hotter then the other. Damn, I need to pull the hub off and check the wheel bearing. I have 2 spare sets, grease and all the tools, I just have to make the time

 

 



NOT Photoshopped - that's the real color!!!!

Arrive in Broome just after 1:00pm, and head to the  Cable Beach caravan park where we are booked in. Head to our site, set up and head into town to look around. We haven’t been to Broome for 10 years and we didn’t have a car, and a lot has changed.

 

WE get trailer stuff sorted, and Treg are sending up a new “U” coupling by express post cheaper than I can buy one  in town (genuine article) Order Tuesday, and we pick it up Friday from the post office. Thanks to Trisha at Treg Engineering for helping us out!!! Great service!!!!

 

Sam and Max Standing on a real "live" Dinosaur footprint - Probably a stegosaur

Dinosaur Footprints are visible while we are here. Its only at certain lower tides and we scored. Kids up early as low tide was at 0706 on Saturday. Decide to leave Mandy and boys at the market and I’ll do the wheel bearing on the trailer.

 

Eventually pull stubborn wheel hub off, outside bearing falls out, looks ok. Start to punch out inner bearing, and decide for some reason to check that the replacement is the right one. Guess what? It wont fit over the axle!!! Massive thanks to the Nimrod at the Bearing place for picking the wrong bearing off the conversion chart. Next time I’ll get Timken! Repack original bearings as they looked ok. Grease looked ok, not metallic. New grease, same bearings L don't know why the hub is hot though.......



Cable Beach - "nuff said!

 

Every day has been over 30 degrees, so swimming every day. Kids having a ball. Either beach or pool. Kids bodyboard at beach. Love it, even after Max got thrown off a few times and was a bit apprehensive, we got him back out there and its now his favourite thing he did on Broome



 

 

Anyway, highlights(and low lights) for Broome:
 

a)      CCable Beach: ridiculously famous for a reason! If you ever go and have a 4x4, drive down at low tide, head north on the beach and go about 1-1.5km past the “clothing optional” part of the beach and you will find the most amazing flat white beach and hardly any people…… superb

b)      CLand of Pharaohs Kebab in Paspaly Plaza. AMAZING kebabs, and for Broome, very reasonable priced at $11 reg and 13 Large (Melb expect to pay $8-$10 reg and $9-12 for large. Great staff and cool funky atmosphere

c)      D Well, to be fair, The Blue Sea Fish and Chips near Coles was pretty good, but when it cost $62 for 4 people, I was thinking I should have been getting table service not take away!!!!!! Burger was $12, but came standard with cheese, onion, beetroot, carrot, lettuce, tomato. Still, a bit rich for mine!

d)     Cable Beach Caravan park. Nice staff, clean, modern. Pool was amazing. Great place to stay even if we were in WA school holidays.

e)      CJimmy Howard.  This bloke was staying in the van behind us. He used to live “up these parts” but now calls Qld home, but comes back every year. Handy C&W singer, and all round nice bloke. Told us  how his mum “passed” recently, at 107 years old!!!! Sad to see him still sad about it, but it was fairly recent. Really nice bloke. Turns out his neice, Tammy, runs Middle Lagoon caravan park! We promise to say hello for him!!!

f)    C  Steve from Myswag.org. Absolute legend. We didn't end up being able to catch up due to work schedules and him packing for his own trip, but he ran around checking out who had tow hitches and U couplings and was just brilliant!!!! Thanks Heaps mate. Owe you many beers!!!!

 

Bit sad to leave. I keep hinting how WA ambos get paid $25k  a year more than we do, and how I could move here. Not met with popular reply. Something about cyclones..........

Day 29 – Windjana to Fitzroy Crossing and Geikie Gorge tour

Day 29 – Windjana to Fitzroy Crossing 151km, and BACK ON BITUMEN for the last 40km!!!!

 

 

Arrive in FC, ahead of the flock of Grey Nomads, and settle into our spot. It’s a first come- first served site allocation, so our early arrival pays dividends

 

We also discover its 2 for 1 Fish and chips at the “pub” attached to the caravan park. I availed myself of my first pizza in a month! It’s not Terra Rossa but it was ok, even if it was 4 TIMES the price. We are so spoilt in Melbourne!

 

Day 30 and its Geikie Gorge tour day. We shop in the morning, back to the Local IGA, with the requisite crowd of “locals” just hanging around, not doing much. The IGA is the only place in town that has fresh, and I mean, still hot, bread, so we raid the bakery section!

Geikie Gorge - Simply Amazing!!!!

 

 

Geikie Gorge is amazing and the tour guide, who works for DEC (WA version of DSE) is a local who tells us about both the scientific history, but also some of the local aboriginal cultural history. Just amazing. More freshwater Crocs than you can count!!!!

crocodyllus johnstonii! Top of the Food Chain Since 20,000,000 years ago!

 

Windjana Gorge and Tunnel Creek (Day 27 & 28)

Day 27 Bell Gorge to Windjana 144km

 

Heading into Windjana gorge on Billiard Table smooth dirt roads takes about 2 hours owing to the winding nature and hills. Arriving at Windjana, and yet anther brilliant DEC run Campsite. Memo Victoria’s DSE/Park’s Victoria: This is how you run a camp site. The access fees ($11 per car day or $80 for a year) plus $11 per adult for camping, goes towards Septic tanks and facility maintenance. DSE/Parks Vic need to lift their game considerably!!!  We haven’t seen and Long Drop (Known here as an EcoToilet) since Purnululu.

 

We head down to the Gorge around sunset, as there is said to be Freshwater Crocs (crocodylus johnstonii). Max read the Warning sign without any help!

 

We see some crocs, but the gorge is amazing anyway.

 

It is said tat the gorge is part of an ancient Barrier Reef from 300,000,000 years ago! There is even a fossilised Nautiloid shell (like a nautilus shell) in the rock to support this

 

Day 28 – Day 2 at Windjana – Tunnel Creek – Drama strikes

 

Half way along tunnel Creek - there was a cave in....... very cool

Second day at Windjana Gorge NP and  Tunnel Creek is on the agenda. Tunnel Creek is part of the Devonian Reef, and water has carved a tunnel through the limestone. The water is cold and is said to have the odd Freshwater croc or 2 J Lucky for us we didn’t see any.

 

Under Construction: Tunnel Creek Diversion Dam

We did see bats, insects, Stalactites and the like and the walk to the far end, where Jandamurra and his mob hid out after killing a Station owner and a few cops was quite spectacular.

 

The boys decided that after seeing Lake Arglye that they would build a diversion damn on Tunnel creek. Playing in the sand, in a cave……. Cool

 

 

The whole thing was pretty amazing and we were all on a buzz after doing it. We had left car parked, like most others had, and returned the 25km back to the camp site where I realised that we didn’t have a tow hitch! What the??!! Some low life had pinched the tow hitch! It meant we couldn’t hook the trailer up to the car and couldn’t leave.

 

Windjana Gorge also happens to be the only place on Main Land Australia where Optus has coverage and Telstra does NOT. Thankfully RACV total care has a 1800 number, and the payphone allows calls to 1800 numbers with credit on a Telecard, which I didn’t have anyway L

 

We had a spare Tongue, Pin and R Clip but no spare Treg U Coupling. Bugger.

 

While managing a few choice words about the shallowness of the Genepool that some people must come from, a lovely lady happened by our site. She asked Mandy how she was going, reclined in her camp chair, the answer “ Stranded actually”. Mandy related the story and she went about her business. She then went back and mentioned it to her husband. Now we had never met Alan and Sue before this incident. Alan wanders over, Beer in one hand, and a U coupling in the other. Are you kidding me? Someone had a spare one? We were contemplating staying 3 extra nights. This all happened on a Saturday Afternoon. Everything up here shuts around lunch on Saturday, and is closed Sunday. So there wasn’t anything to be done until Monday.

 

However, Alan came to the rescue. Sure the thread on the bolt was a little damaged, but it was fixable. After a few hours we had the U coupling on and we could leave. WE were heading towards Karartha, where Alan and Sue’s daughter lives and we were to drop it off there for a safe return to Alan. Problem Solved!

 

Next morning, when we went to give Alan some money to buy a Slab with and a nice bottle of Chardy for Sue, they knocked us back. Can you believe that? What a bloke!! We insisted, he refused, said we were insulting him!

 

Alan and Sue: You are legends. The true Aussie spirit, helping someone out when  they are in strife!

 

We were now able to stay on track and head to Fitzroy Crossing and see Geikie Gorge, as the fall back plan was for me to drive on Monday to Derby (145km) or Broome (250km) and return with another U coupling if we could get one

 

RACV were going to get a loan hitch from a RACWA “agent” in Derby, but we would have then been in Derby and not Fitzroy Crossing.

 

In the end it all worked out

GRR Continues - Manning and Bell Gorges (Day 25 and 26)

Day 25 GRR continued

 

Ellenbrae to Manning Gorge 180km

 

Manning Gorge was a quaint campsite behind the Mt Barnett Roadhouse. Fuel there $2.40 l WOW

 

Manning gorge water hole proved to be as hit with the kids, their previous swimming site being Lake Argyle. Kids had a ball, swimming out to the rocks, paddling around and having a generally great time. The boys got in the boat that is used to cross the water hole to start the walk.

 

Opted out of the 2.5 km walk to the Gorge proper. Others said it was a bit disappointing, but they had been to Bell gorge first. That is our next stop……..

 

Day 26

Mannning Gorge to Silent Grove/Bell Gorge 116km

 

Silent Grove, the campsite for Bell Gorge is a great DEC run campsite, flushing Toilets, Solar Showers and lovely Volunteer Camp hosts to help you out.

 

We spot another MySwag.org member, but don’t get to actually catch up and speak with them

 

Bell Gorge: OMG amazing. Walk in down a river bed, steep to start with but levelled out. You enter an amazing wide water hole at the TOP of a horseshoe waterfall. To get to the bottom is a scramble down some rocks to an amazing Waterfall. Kids (and Adults) and diving off a 8-10m high cliff into the crazy deep river.

 

 

A Merten’s Water Montior waltz’ by, but I wasn’t quick enough to get the Camera out. Kids fascinated

 

Whole thing is just brilliant. “They” reckon bell Gorge is the best on the GRR, and I reckon “they” are right

ELQ to 7XL via HV8 or El Questro to Ellenbrae Station via Home Valley

Day 24 2/7/2013

 

El Questro To Ellenbrae Station 160km

 

Ok, so we’re on the Gibb River Road proper now. The section between El Questro and Home Valley Station is said to be the worst section of the GRR. 80km to Home Valley Station (HV8 – that is their registered Cattle Brand – like a radio callsign) is a working cattle station, turning its hand to Tourism to supplement the declining cash returns from Cattle. An Aboriginal run station, it works to promote and train local indigenous people in Cattle station operations as well as hospitality. Good call! The staff are helpful, courteous and knowledgeable Our biggest regret is that we opted NOT to stay here after 3 nights at ELQ as its only 80k  up the road. If we hadn’t had to book Broome, we’d have just stayed a night here. Its that nice. We stayed for an hour and a half, kids played on the play ground, and I helped a bloke with a broken door latch on his camper. He asked “Don’t suppose you have a battery Drill?” I said  “yeah actually, what size drill bit to you need?”  and pulled out my drill set. He stood there, slack jawed, that I’d bothered to pack that. I never considered leaving home without it………

Crossing the Pentecost River- NOW you are really in The Kimberley and on the Gibb River Road!

 

Anyway, moving on, we power through the corrugations and arrive at Ellenbrae, renowned throughout the Kimberley as the best Scones in the district. Well, I suppose we’d better test that theory then huh?!

 

Lovely homestead and fabulous people, the smell of freshly cooking scones wafted through the air, and for the ridiculously cheap  price of $4.50 each we had their scones for lunch. As their own sign says, the were Scone-tastic. And we had seconds!!!!!

 No Pictures were taken of Scone eating, as I am able to eat without take a ;picture of my food and posting it on Facebook........

This conversation overheard at the front “desk”

 

Grey-nomad “ So, Can you tell me how the Scones with Jam and Cream work?”

Jason – station Owner “ Well mate, we give you a scone, you put Jam and cream on it…….. you eat it…..that's the traditional way.....fairly simple really….. we like to keep things simple out here”

Me  ROFL – the Man is a Genius!!!!!!!

 

Directed to Campground: For $35 a night you get Flushing Toilet(!!!!!), and running hot water from a Donkey

 

For those not familiar with a donkey, it works like this. It’s a Steel vessel containing water with space underneath for a fire to be lit. Cold water enters the bottom and gets heated, naturally flowing to the top of the vessel and out to tap when you open it. Simple bush hot water service. Taks about 15 minutes to heat up and lasts as long as you keep the fire lit.

El Questro - The Gibb River Road Begins Day 19 -

Day 19 – The Gibb River Road

  

Depart Lake Argyle and into Kununurra to stock up on food and fuel. Wait 10 minutes while person in front of me at bowser does SHOPPING in Coles/Shell and comes back with 3 big bags of shopping!!!! Thanks for your awareness of all the other people in the world!!! Brumbys, attached to a BP servo is only Bakery in Kununurra. Hit them up for some pies...... haven't had a pie in ages!!!!!

 

Spot a “ Spot the Difference: One of these  is not a Taxi” poster with a picture of a Taxi and an Ambulance! According to the locals,  the local indigenous population are fond of calling the big Green and white Taxi (aka Ambulance, as the local ambulances are….well….. Green and white) to get into town when they have no money for petrol!!!!!

 

Regardless of such trivialities, we head westward, and towards the renowned Gibb River Road. Souvenirs in shops proclaim such things as “I survived the Gibb River Road”, none of these are to be purchased until Broome!

 

We are heading for El Questro Station. Loved by many and loathed by some, it is a great start to the Gibb (known from here as either “The Gibb” or the GRR). Although entirely commercial (the owners actually have nothing to do with running cattle; they sublet the non tourist parts out to Salerno Pastoral, who manage the pesky bovines.

 

Lobbing at El Questro in the later arvo (Late means after 3pm, as its dark by 5:30)

We secure a spot in the “general campground”. Its fairly packed, but its peak season, so not so bad.

 

The Boys made Boab Nut Characters - From L to R "Alien" and "Nutter"

Facilities are great, clean and plentiful. Saturday night happens to be “all you can eat BBQ buffet” with endless Steaks, Barra, Chicken and Snags, served with 7 salads and dessert! $38 per head (adults) kids eat FREE! Sadly for El Questro, they hadn’t met our kids, or “Food Disposal Units” as we often call them. The kids got our $38 worth!! Max wouldn’t stop eating the various melons and fresh fruit after 4 bits of chicken, 3 of fish and a snag!

 

Day 2 at El Questro, our first full day,

 

Kids are badgering us to ride a horse. 30 minutes lead rides are available for those with no previous experience…..so we fork out the cash and do it. Both boys seem to love the riding, with Max looking like he had been riding for years. He is just relaxed, sitting up, and like most things, he caught on really quick. As is turned out, the Horse Wrangler, Christian, who is actually from Victoria, led Sam and another older boy, while leaving Max to himself.

 

I suppose he knows his horses, but when Max’s horse was supposed to be stopped and he started walking, Max just pulled the reigns back and he stopped. Similarly, when he wanted to move, he kicked him or pulled the reigns the right way…. He just got it….. smarty pants. Don’t get too attached to horses……they’re too expensive

 

 

 

 

Arvo was a drive out to some of the scenic lookouts. Damn it was impressive. The size, the Cockburn Ranges are beautiful. Crossed the Chamberlain River which was pretty low, but you can see how high it gets in the Wet Season. Hard to imagine, but amazing to contemplate.

 

Day 3 at El Questro

 

We head for Zebedee Springs, a natural thermal Rock pool which is fed from water rising from the Deep subterrrainian Water Tables and is a lovely 28-32 degrees. A short walk and we’re there. Amazing tropical rainforest like area, with Livingtonia Palms and rock pools full of crystal clear running water. Like a hot bath that never goes cold!!!!!